DIY Statement Sleeve Coat

I was afraid I wouldn’t get this coat made before the weather got too warm to wear it. Hahahahaha…how silly of me. It’s been snowing almost every day this week in Pittsburgh! Guess I’ll get a bit of wear out of it this season after all. If you’re a regular here on my blog, then you know I’ve been having a lot of fun making coats in fun prints and colors this winter. So, I figured why not add just one more. Also, with this coat, I finally succumbed (reluctantly) to the statement sleeve trend – more on this to come.

Purple Wool Coat with Pleated Statement Sleeves by Sartorial Seamstress

For this coat, I used McCall’s #M7730, which I picked it up on a bit of a whim during a pattern sale at JoAnns. As I alluded to above, I am not a fan of the statement sleeve trend, currently having a major fashion moment. I think most of this comes from my complete disdain for ruffles. I’ve never been a fan of garments with ruffles, gathers, or any other type of frilly bits on the bodice or sleeves. It’s just not me, and to be completely honest, I think all that stuff makes my chest look bigger, which is NEVER something I want.

All that being said, when I saw McCall’s #M7730, I found myself kind of loving view C. Yes, it does have statement sleeves, buuuut they have a simple, understated pleat detail – not a ruffle in sight.

Purple Wool Coat with Pleated Statement Sleeves by Sartorial Seamstress

My initial thought for fabric was a bright yellow wool, but I couldn’t find quite what I was looking for. Good thing too, because not long after, I made my bright yellow plaid coat. And let’s face it, two bright yellow coats is about one too many. I decided to use another vintage wool from my stash and selected this heathered periwinkle. I guess you could say this coat combines all my least favorite things, because purple is possibly my least favorite color. But, just like with the pattern, the shade really struck me.

I think this is one of the best things about making your own clothes. You have the freedom to experiment with styles and colors you normally wouldn’t, and sometimes you end up with a real winner.

Purple Wool Coat with Pleated Statement Sleeves by Sartorial Seamstress
Do you see the snow in this pic?!

I should add in here that the lining is a silky print from JoAnns. I don’t see it online, but I bought it in-store recently.

Assembling this coat was a breeze, and the instructions were quite simple. I do, however, have one question – why don’t coat all patterns have facings?!?! Aaaahhh…this drives me crazy! I don’t know if pattern companies are trying to make coat construction easy for beginners, but this is the second coat I’ve made recently that didn’t have what I would consider proper facings. In fact, this pattern had no facings at all. Instead, the lining came right up to the edges of the coat. Since this style tends to flop open at the top, I found the lack of facings looked a bit unfinished. While I love my lining fabric, I love the look of beautifully finished facings more. Sigh.

Purple Wool Coat with Pleated Statement Sleeves by Sartorial Seamstress

Okay, okay, I’m getting off my soapbox now.

Rather than just complain about the problem, I decided to solve it and draft my own facings. To do this, I simply traced the shape of the neckline and coat front from the existing pattern pieces. I decided to make the facings about 4” wide. After interfacing and sewing the linings in the same manner as the coat shell, I attached them to the lining.  With both right sides up, I placed the facing on top of the lining, matching up raw edges and basted the raw edges together. For the other facing edges, I turned them under about ¼” and topstitched them to the lining. While I as at it, I also added a small loop at the center back for hanging.

Purple Wool Coat with Pleated Statement Sleeves by Sartorial Seamstress
I loved the pins so much, I didn’t want to take them off!

To create a neat edge around the bottom, I added 1 1/4” to the bottom of the coat shell. I did this so when the lining was sewn in, I would get just about 5/8” of the wool turned to the inside. I think this helps prevent sagging linings and just looks nice and neat.

I didn’t need to make any size alterations to this pattern, which is always nice. If I were to make this coat again, though, I would probably make the top part of the sleeve just a tad bit larger. The sleeves fit great as they are, but I definitely couldn’t wear a sweater or top with any kind of bulk.

Normally, I don’t talk too much about how I style my makes for the blog, but I do want to say a few things about this outfit. First off, I am so giddy about the vintage pins on this coat. I love vintage jewelry and try to pick up unique pieces whenever I see them at flea markets. With the clean lines at the top of this coat, I thought it would be the perfect canvas for some old-timey razzle dazzle. I think I was right…and I may not be able to wear this coat ever again without those pins!

Purple Wool Coat with Pleated Statement Sleeves by Sartorial Seamstress

Second thing I want to talk about are my jeans. This is my first ever pair of handmade jeans!!! I made them using Closet Case Patterns’ Ginger Jeans pattern (this is a seriously good pattern) and some black denim from JoAnns. They are going to get their own blog post soon, because I have a LOT to say about them. For now, let me just say that I love them, and they have kicked my ready-to-wear jeans’ butts.

On another note, this weekend is the annual Pittsburgh Salvation Army Fabric Fair. I am so excited…it’s like Christmas morning. I’ll be sure to take some photos while I’m there (it gets crazy!!) and share my finds. All this coat making is starting to deplete my vintage wool stash – I need to fill it up!

Until next time,

Happy Sewing!

Purple Wool Coat with Pleated Statement Sleeves by Sartorial Seamstress

Purple Wool Coat with Pleated Statement Sleeves by Sartorial Seamstress

Purple Wool Coat with Pleated Statement Sleeves by Sartorial Seamstress

Purple Wool Coat with Pleated Statement Sleeves by Sartorial Seamstress

Purple Wool Coat with Pleated Statement Sleeves by Sartorial Seamstress

 

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